You can delete it out of here Paul if you want lol

Picked up my new steed yesterday and all ready to start ripping into it

If anyone has any XS bits give me a shout, I mainly need:-

Left and right hand side timing covers - GOT
Alternator windings - GOT
Alternator Cover - GOT
Clutch mechanism through crankcase to clutch other side - GOT
Top engine mounts - GOT
Carb bowl x 1 - GOT
Carb rubbers x 1 or two mint ones - GOT
Regulator/rectifier - GOT
Throttle - GOT
Brake master cylinder - [COLOR=red]NEED one for 7/8 bars with no header just plain[/COLOR=red]
Brake caliper x 1 - GOT
Clutch mech - GOT

Cheers

cool little bike nick...i,m running around on an r6..race rep...its a fantastic little bike..zap to work and back...keep us updated mate....

cool B)

i have a mate who's running an xs chop at the mo, just fitted a leccy ignition kit to it as the points just would not stay 'in tune' for more than 5 minutes !! they must be real shit quality these days as im sure they used to be ok in the old days!

we'd spend 15 mins setting it up carefully, he'd test ride it around the block, come back and turn it off, go to restart it (as dodgy as cleaning a loaded shotgun) and it'd back fire and blow the carbs out of the rubbers :lol:

fitted a leccy kit and its been as good as gold since B)

Got a boyer kit with the bike, trouble is it was for a trumpet so hour later at work
made an adaptor on the lathe and hey presto elecy ignition

Thought id update with progress so far

Made a battery box for it, measured it all up nicey nicey, fabbed it, put it in place then
realised i'd forgot to allow for the chain on the left hand side lol, so had to do a cut and
shut

The last pic is what ive crammed inside, Battery, Boyer box, main fuse holder, main
relay that will make the whole fuse box live when ignition switch is turned, ignition
switch, kill switch. Mounted it all up so all that is showing is 2 x 6mm thread brass
dome nuts showing on the outside

Then i had to adapt the boyer ignition that came with the bike, whoever bought it
made a mistake with buying a triumph kit which uses the same brain box (red box)
but with different pickups and stator plate. So I knocked up some adaptors after a
little thought and managed to mount it all up to the xs's camshaft. Hooked up some
basic wiring and managed to get spark first time round, well chuffed, it didnt cost me
a penny just a bit of workshop time

The black marked bits on the stator plate is where I have to cut to allow static timing
to be set accuratly, all this has been done now so will get some pics taken











Then I had to think of someway of mounting the coil out of site, found a little nook
between the harley tank that fitted it perfectly, ive put a couple of rivnuts in since
so i can tighten it up without the top tube crushing together which is what will
happen if i'd kept the nut and bolts

Ive had a problem with getting bits for the carbs that came with the bike, there hard
to find US ones all I needed was a carb bowl and fabricate a throttle stop but couldnt
find a bowl anywhere and new carbs or second hand are stupid prices, someone
mentioned that GPZ500 carbs fit on with a bit of work and jetting (possibly) and I
managed to get some off eBay for £24 with postage, result!

Had to make an adaptor for the throttle cable and also made a bracket that holds the
back of the carbs in place as the mountings are rubber and they can crack overtime
but the results were spot on so was well chuffed, just possible need idle jetting going
up one size and it should run even better than the standard crappy XS ones

Also Converted to RD 350 alternator this is a piece of piss really, I bought the kit of a guy on eBay
but the adaptor plate was appalling, to be fair he sent me a new one but that was no good either, so
i knocked my own up out of plate, then all you need is the windings and pickup magnets and regulator
Ill get some pics taken when ive finished making the regulator bracket that is going to mount where the
starter used to be, should get good airflow there and its tucked up out of the way too

Thats it for now done loads more work but no pics as yet, its upto the stage of filling with oil
and starting but waiting for my mate to get the oil as were going halfs cause we both only need
2.5 litres each. In the meantime ive been polishing the side plates and washed them out as below pic shows,
dishwashers are great parts washers! Unless u time it wrong and your missus comes back half way
through the cycle lol Then its strip engine out, get frame on the bench and reweld the shity welds someone
else has done, then sort out forks, adapt a twin leading shoe honda drum brake to front and convert to 21inch
front wheel, respoke the back, get new tyres, fabricate and exhaust finish of wiring + lights, recover the seat,
get a chain sorted out and were done, hopefully!!

thats fcking awesome nick....what show do you want to do first....

anywhere in england....... ;)

Anywhere in England is fine by me m8 :D

Mike just spotted this, any idea how much it will be to knock some pipes up like this?

Thats coming along really nicely Nick, see it was worth getting shot of that silly old I-beam after all :)

Haha I suppose it was mate :D

Sheesh ... 20 miles on that and you'd have nuts like a Nigerian terrorist !!

::+:: ::+::

pmk sent nick

::+:: ::+::

Tried to start it today after oiling her up yesterday, eventually fired a couple
of times after finding the timing marks on the rotor were 10 deg out! After nearly
breaking my ankle after a high kickback I remarked it at the correct 40 deg BTDC
and timed up, kicked over better and showed a little sign of life. The carbs are
flooding like mad so had to do it on easy start, gonna strip the carbs tomorrow
and get all the bits in our hugh ultrasonic baths we have at work next week when
Im on nights then leave em in for the whole 9 hour shift and should come out sparklin.
Then fingers crossed we should have signs of life :)

Well she's running! Got her started this afternoon for the 1st time only running on Ether at the mo
need to sort out the carbs but sorted the flooding out on them

Problem was the bloody alternator conversion from xs-uk! as above post I thought his timing marks
were out ten degree's turns out with a bit of head scratching and beer injuiced brain storming
last night in the pub that he has put new marks on 'after' TDC not before TDC, thought they didnt
look right but half convinced myself he must know what hes doing, but with a drawing on a fag
packet last night realised that I was right to question the marks as they were totally bloody wrong!
No wonder I nearly broke my ankle kicking the bugger over. With a healthy dose of easy start it
coughed first kick, then fired into life second kick. I knew these engines vibrate but I wasnt ready
for it nearly shaking itself right out of the frame haha :D

bone shaker.....hard core.. :D

Haha yeah jumped for the kill switch at first cause I thought the throttle had stuck
open, realised it was like that on tickover then I hit the throttle god its loud, my
bro in law phoned me to see if it was me making all the racket and he lives 5 streets
away lol

i use mine as an early morning alarm call....only trouble is all the exaust fumes make you sleepy.... :lol:

thats totally wicked man dinga! I hope I get a look at it in the real sometime, sounds like its going to be pure evil!!

Knocked up an engine stand today, stripped the bike down to a bare frame
yesterday to weld up the frame properly. Going to polish all the engine now
same style as exile as I hate polished pimped up stuff, stand makes it hell of
an easier to get to all the nooks and crannies

keep them pics coming nick.. ;) .

Hi here's how I converted my front end to a Harley Davidson 35mm showa forks off a Sportster (XL) or a Superglide (FX). I'm sure you can use the same principle to adapt any other forks to it, I wanted the front end to be narrow with a 21" front wheel and the calipers on this model look really neat and tidy

First of all comparison for lower triple tree and steering stem, as you can see the Harley at the bottom stem is much shorter and narrower



So I chopped the stem off each lower tree using a lathe, you could just grind the welds off if you dont have access to a lathe, there is a weld only on the bottom of each stem that holds it in

XS Tree, I made a bevel cut on each tree so you can weld it up good and strong again after, you will see the break in the weld as a ring once you have broken through






Then cut the harley one too, after cutting the stem I made a cut straight across the face of the yolk, this will serve as a good datum point for holding the yolk on a miller or boring machine, or to clock it in if you use a 4 jaw chuck in a lathe to enlarge the stem hole in the Harley yolk. Also note I cut the rear bracket off the stem that acts as the Harley stop first before putting it in the lathe



Now as mentioned above the XS steering tube is larger than the Harley one so you now need to enlarge the hole to 29.5mm or as I did on a boring machine, enlarge it for an interference fit
Unfortunately Ive lost the pic mocked up on the boring machine, sorry, you can use a miller, lathe with 4 jaw chuck or even a drill but you need this hole to be exactly square and have an interference fit for it to be a decent job, so take this to your local machine shop if your not sure

Now the top yolk amazingly is EXACTLY the right size for the steering tube, I couldnt believe it when it just popped on nice and snug! And is held in by the standard XS top nut



Then all built up using standard XS tapered bearings, looks the business







Now all I need to do is weld the steering stem up, fabricate 2 small steering stops, this also will be a neat job as you can use the XS stop welded to the frame neck, all I going to do is weld two small tabs on the bottom yolk and this will be spot on. I will add another pic of this when done. The XS front axle also fits the forks, it is mounted on in the pic, so if your going to use a standard wheel and sure it will fit OK

Im now looking for a 70's sportster 21" front wheel with twin discs if anyone knows of one knocking around

hee Nick nice build.
if your gonna do the exhaust on one side, i would do them on the left side, because the right cilinder runs 10/15 degrees hotter.

Cheers for that mate, have u had an xs before?

got my first xs now
build a hardtail for it, and thinking about a rephase to 277.
here she is now.




and my rearwheel, that i laced myself

I dont suppose you could lace me up a 16" rear wheel could you! Thats exactly
what I want to do with the SM 5.00 x 16 tyre, ive a 3.00 x 21" front to go on it
when I can find a harley 21" 40 spoke front rim and get it laced

Your frame looks very good love the lines

lacing is easy. you can do it, was my first also.
put in all the spokes first, then tighten them in a cross pattern, a bit at a time.
you can use the swingarm in a vice to treu it,

i got offered a 21" 2.15 40spoke rim (HD) today for 20euro's.
(got some spot's in the chrome do.)
but then you still need laces and a drum/hub.

i got a 21" 1.85 and a minibrakedrum for the front, and a avon speedmaster MKII 3.00-21

ThanXS, the frame still needs some tig welding, and shaping of the axl-plates.
and i'm letting the crank rephase to 277 (less vibration more rpm)

I have been thinking about doing it myself I do like the spoke pattern on yours
and the coated hub + rim, what rim did you use and what sort of spokes, did you
have to get it drilled differently first? I have been quoted stupid prices by wheel
builders over here and was a little pi$$ed off about it as the 5.00 x 16 Avon does
look the business doesn't it

Ive managed after some searching to find the correct hub for the harley narrow
glide front end, aparently they only did twin disc models on SE models and it was
hard to track down, even some harley people scratched their head and said they
didnt make a twin disc hub for the showa front, but they did and I tracked one
down at the staffordshire classic bike show a couple of weeks ago, and bought it
complete with twin discs, axle and speedo drive all for less than a single disc would
have cost so well chuffed biggest bargain so far

Cheers for your help in advance Id given up hope with the 16 rear

Post a new thread of yours up Ive read a lot about rephrasing, be interested to
read up on your progress on doing that, if you ever need machining doing give me
a shout, postage to hollands not bad lol :D

my rearwheel is a standard xs650 dubble laced wheel, bought is for €20, new spokes (stainlessteel) €70.
the 5.00 16" avon i bought at www.novarota.nl for €102.79 , saved me i think €60 or €70 whit other stores).
(don't know if they ship to britain, but if you really want one i'm willing to help whit shipping).

when i'll continiu whit the build i'll start a topic. building a shed now, so no time for the bike
cheers Tre

the rephasing is not that difficult.
split the crank in the middle, and turn the right side 3 splines forward.
(i'll havo to check if it's forward of the bike, or of the rotation direction of the crank).
then press it back together and treu it whit a copper hammer. it's recommended togive the splinded axl some tagwelds (it will try to sepperate sometimes i've heard.)

the problem (for me) is the camshaft, you need to cut, rotate, and weld back together. some drill out the cam and put a tube in to keep it straight.

(i dont have the machines to do that so i'm gonna buy a new cam/ have mine rephased by jerry (www.heidentuning.nl), he's the xs specialist, you can mail him whit questions and so, he recommended the 277 over the 270 rephase because it was easier ,cheaper, and i'll probebly won't notice the diffrence)
he's verry bussy so sometimes it takes a bit of time to get an anwser.

i think i have pics somewhere i'll look for it
ps: if you want i can ask around for a dubble laced xs rearwheel. (don't know if i can find one as cheap as mine, but i'll keep an eye out forya)

new alloy rim
http://www.heidentuning.nl/p/28/2715/mo74-...eritage-215x16-

Thats a great site cheers for that and cheap postage to anywhere in the EU is a big bonus
thanks alot, I see they have spokes and rims ready for you to spoke up and go which is
what ive been searching for, for ages

The rephrasing sounds pretty straight forward I might have a play with a spare cam when Im
on nights next and have the run of the machine shop without my boss watching my arse lol :D
Cheers for the advice

i'm also gonna chaince the alternater for one whit pemanent magnets from a yamaha rd/banshee, i've got the flywheel ,but still need the stator and a reg/rec.
then i don't need a battery, she will be kick-only.
i also bought a pamco ignition (so goodbeye points) but i need to sell it since i'm gonna rephase.(if your intrested i sell it for €75, it's brand, new jerry also got them)
26may i'll bring my crank and cam to jerry and he'll do the rephase. (i got a replacement/refurbiced? crank from him, but didn't use it yet, so i can exanche it for a rephased one. (the crank í could do myself i think but the cam will be a problem.)
you should check out www.650garage.com lot of info about rephasing and alternator swap, etc.

Ive done the conversion and it works good and dead easy to wire, Ive got a conversion
plate that was sent me cause the first one that was sent was crap but by the time I got it id already
milled the crap one to suit, you can have it if you want although the replacement needs work
on it to Im sure the guy didnt own a drill and used a grinder to cut holes!

Ive made my own boyer ignition out of bits from other bikes thanks for the offer on the Pamco

thanXS for the offer.
i've got a banshee baseplate, i think i'll take of 3mm of the mount tabs, and make an adapterplate of 3mm aluminium.
i still need a stator and a reg/rec and capaciter?.
what stator did you use?

found some vht gloss black today in holland. (found some before in the uk, but shipping was 36pounds <_< ).


got 2 boxes whit stock parts whit the bike so if you need anything stock (wich i doubt :lol: ) just let me know.

I used an Yamaha RD250 / 350 stator, just cut the sensor off the side and bolted straight on
Then there are 3 white wires off this that go to the 3 wires on the regulator diodes, then you just have
a positve and negative wire, negative goes to the frame positive goes through a fuse to the battery
or in your case a capacitor dead easy, although if you ever need to use your lights at night if you
park you havnt got the facility to power them, depends on your road laws, mines still kickstart only
but I decided to go for the battery option as my frame has quite a large area behing the engine
for a battery box

I need if you have got any front pipes and clamps, 1 x float bowl, neutral switch with the plunger that goes
in the gearbox that actuates it in neutral and a sidestand spring cant believe Ive nearly got
everthing XS wise, still need harley risers, z bars, inch throttle and clutch lever, front brake lines
and master cylinder, mini speedo and cable and I think thats it! Just got to get my lazy arse
and empty wallet into gear :D

i'll have a look for ya nick.
it's all in boxes and tonight i've got nightshift, let ya know tomorrow.
grtz Tre

ps: on a dutch hardtail forum there's someone whit 20m3 of spare xs parts.

don't think i can help whit the parts you need.
could find the sidestand spring , got the sidestand tho if ya need.
only stock 7/8 levers/master cilinders.
just one neutral switch (need it myself).
5 or six stock coils.
2 stock headlights (one sealedbeam).
stock handlebar switches.
stock front brakecaliper

ps: maybe it's a good idea to mount a small battery to backup the lights, i'll be using leds on the back so a small one would be enough, and then i don't need a capaciter.