Fig-parrots are rare in aviculture and have a reputation of being delicate and dieing without apparent reason. However, a lot of the breeding failures are traced back to breeders' ignorance pertaining to the dietary requirements of this particular parrot species. Provided fig-parrots are well acclimatized and maintained in appropriate conditions, they are pretty hardy and quite prolific. These colorful little parrots are not recommended for the beginner or half-hearted aviculturists as they do have special demands caused by their special diet and messy eating habits. The survival of some of the species may depend on captive breeding successes, therefore, it is important that fig-parrots be integrated into well-managed breeding programs with breeders who are experienced enough to be able to meet their demands and can address possible problems that are likely to present themselves. Artificial incubation and handrearing of the young may become necessary, as there are cases of captive-bred parents abandoning their eggs. This being said, generally spoken, fig-parrots make excellent parents and their parent-reared offspring may assist in the raising of additional clutches.

Nesting Boxes:

Mostly, fig parrots are not picky about nest boxes; however, some individual pairs did not start breeding until the nest boxes and locations were changed several times. If possible, providing a choice of nesting boxes of different sizes and shapes, placed in different locations within the flight will enable the parents to pick a box and a location they feel most comfortable with. Pairs tend to have their own preferences as far as the type of nest box is concerned and it often depends on what they themselves where raised in. If you have the benefit of knowing your bird's breeder, this is one issue to discuss.

Some fig parrots prefer small boxes with one single entrance hole, while others prefer a nest box with two entrance holes at opposite ends. Some pairs like to chew an additional hole themselves while incubating. They use the extra opening to remove droppings and dirt that accumulate after the chicks hatched. Once a pair has chosen its favorite box, any extra nest boxes can be removed. If these boxes are to be moved to another flight, it's important to ensure that the log / nest box is cleaned to remove any mites, parasites and pathogens.

Possible choices are:

* Cockatiel / lovebird nesting box (with an enlarged opening)
* Budgie-sized nesting box are also sometimes accepted
* Hollow logs

Note: The nesting box or log should be sturdy enough to withstand the heavy chewing that they will be inevitably subjected to. Some nest boxes have spout entrances attached, mainly to protect the eggs from predators.

Specifications:

* Entrance hole should be around 2 inches; an inspection hole - square or around - should be approx. 4 inches


* A removable top / lid can be a useful access point for inspections and for cleaning.


* Location and height of log / nest-box: Install in a sheltered part of the aviary at about 5 feet (~1.5 - 1.8 meters) height, but not too close to the roof to cause heat problems in the hotter months.


* Nesting log / nest-box material: Options are decomposed non-toxic saw dust, corn cob, wood shavings (i.e., Aspen shavings) or other suitable materials. Please note that wood shavings - such as pine, cedar and redwood - give off aromatic hydrocarbons (phenols) and acids that are toxic and can cause ause dermatitis, allergic symptoms and irritation of the digestive tract. They should not be used in cages, aviaries, or nestboxes. The larger the wood chips the better, so the parents don't feed it to the babies or the chicks accidentally ingest it. Other options for nesting material include shredded paper and dried grass.